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Aprender a leer las etiquetas de los cosméticos para no colapsar entre sellos, siglas y palabras en inglés Cosméticos con su etiqueta incorporada.
Nombres exóticos de principios activos o siglas ininteligibles… Bienvenido al folleto de tu crema hidratante. Te ayudamos a descifrarlo A veces leer la etiqueta de una crema es como leer en otro idioma. Lo leemos y no comprendemos nada: siglas, componentes desconocidos, 'palabros' de todo tipo y especie… Sin embargo, la información de las etiquetas está pensada por y para los consumidores . Su objetivo es describirle al usuario qué sustancias o principios activos contiene el producto y cuando termina su fecha de consumo preferente. Se trata de una información importante porque la piel es un órgano dinámico que absorbe muchas sustancias que pasan al torrente sanguíneo.
En primer lugar, el componente mayoritario El modo en cómo está escrita la etiqueta indica diferentes conceptos: la existencia de sustancias naturales o sintéticas y la proporción de productos que pueden causar alergia, de los conservantes, colorantes o parabenos que han sido utilizados para su composición.
Los ingredientes aparecen en orden decreciente por su nivel de concentración. Los primeros que se citan, por tanto, son los que se encuentran en mayor proporción. El primero suele ser Aqua, el agua que permite la hidratación de la piel , pero depende del tipo de producto. Algunos activos no necesariamente deben estar presentes en gran cantidad para ser efectivos. Sería el caso de los aceites esenciales.
Inglés para las sustancias químicas, latín para los derivados de plantas En las etiquetas de los productos cosméticos el inglés se utiliza para designar las sustancias químicas y el latín para los derivados directos de las plantas, con nombres de género y especie según el sistema Linneo. Que un ingrediente sea químico no quiere decir que sea sintético, ya que hay compuestos químicos naturales . En cualquier caso, en inglés aparecen los parabenos, los PEGs o polietilenglicoles, PPGs, siliconas y parafinas ('paraffin'), los ingredientes más polémicos por su posible toxicidad.
En cuanto a que un cosmético sea considerado 'natural', tiene que estar compuesto en más del 90% por materias primas naturales de origen vegetal y carecer de sustancias irritantes, tóxicas o peligrosas. "Para los ingredientes naturales se utiliza el nombre científico binomial, el que se utiliza en biología. En cualquier caso, no debemos catalogar como nocivo un ingrediente sintetizado . Los procesos de síntesis son muchos y muy diversos. Se pueden sintetizar ingredientes aportando cualidades más puras y limpias, elaborar alternativas más sostenibles y respetuosas con el medio ambiente y otorgar distintas propiedades a la mezcla final para conseguir la funcionalidad deseada", explica Eva Raya, cosmetóloga y co-creadora de la firma de alta cosmética natural Alice in Beautyland.
Además de estos conceptos, hay otros elementos que debemos conocer para descifrar el contenido de la etiqueta de nuestra crema.
El INCI, el catálogo universal de ingredientes cosméticos "El INCI es una nomenclatura internacional, en el caso de la Unión Europea común a todos los estados miembros. De este modo, el consumidor puede identificar los ingredientes independientemente del país en el que se encuentre , resultando especialmente importante si quiere evitar alguna sustancia o exista algún riesgo de alergia por su parte. En algunos casos, se encuentran asteriscos junto a los ingredientes. No hay ninguna regulación para ellos. Son anotaciones que, si se hacen, deben ir acompañadas de su respectiva nota", aclara esta experta.
Existen 22.500 ingredientes catalogados en esta lista cuyas siglas responden a International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients y que se utiliza en Estados Unidos, donde fue creada en los años 70, además de en Europa, China, Japón y otros países. El fabricante puede solicitar la exclusión de uno o varios ingredientes de la lista por razones de confidencialidad. En todo caso, los componentes alérgenos deben figurar de forma obligatoria si están en concentraciones superiores al 0,001% .
Conservantes permitidos Todos los conservantes que se utilizan en la Unión Europea son conservantes permitidos y se someten a distintas pruebas para testar su valor y toxicidad. "Tienen una función muy específica, que es la de evitar el desarrollo de microrganismos como hongos y bacterias que puedan ser perjudiciales para la salud . Tanto los conservantes como el resto de los ingredientes de un producto cosmético deben someterse a evaluaciones de seguridad, donde se fija una cantidad máxima permitida teniendo en cuenta la población a la que va destinada y factores como la exposición desde distintas vías o con otros productos", afirma esta experta.
El PAO y otras limitaciones "El PAO es el 'Period After Opening', la vida útil de ese producto una vez se ha abierto . Se distingue por el símbolo del tarrito abierto junto a un número, que es el número de meses que 'aguanta' la fórmula. Es recomendable seguir esa indicación, especialmente en el caso de los solares", explica Eva Raya. Respetar la fecha de caducidad es, como indica la experta, básico para los fotoprotectores , ya que, al margen del tiempo, las condiciones de los baños con humedad, alteraciones térmicas e iluminación hacen que los principios activos pierdan eficacia. Por esa razón, es recomendable que algunos productos, especialmente los que funcionan con efecto frío, se conserven dentro de la nevera .
Prohibido testar en animales En el caso de los sellos de certificación, a veces hay más marketing que legislación. De hecho, en ocasiones, responden a modas o tendencias sociales. Es el caso, por ejemplo, del sello 'cruelty free'. Así lo explica Eva Raya: "los distintos logos asociados a un producto vegano o ecológico son de empresas certificadoras privadas. En la UE, el logo de 'cruelty free' es una redundancia porque está totalmente prohibido testar en animales desde 2013 , y esto se aplica tanto a la fabricación como a la venta del producto. Toda la cosmética europea está libre de crueldad animal, con sello o sin él. En la etiqueta del producto debe aparecer cualquier tipo de restricción si la hubiese, así como las condiciones de uso o advertencias".