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Cuándo una barba (bien cuidada) te sube el guapo El futbolista y técnico Quique Sánchez Flores. Getty.
Las barbas triunfan: basta echar un vistazo a las redes para ver la proporción de hombres con barba entre deportistas, actores, ricos y famosos Lucir barba no es solo dejarse crecer el vello facial: existen toda una serie de protocolos y técnicas para lograr que esa barba sea la que mejor sienta a cada rostro Además del tipo de corte, los cuidados de limpieza e hidratación son básicos para que luzca perfecta Una barba proporcionada y bien adaptada a las facciones es un excelente recurso para potenciar cualquier atractivo. Por esa razón, las barbas se han convertido en una tendencia de éxito, más aún entre los mayores de 50. Basta echar un vistazo a las redes para ver la proporción de hombres con barba entre deportistas, actores, ricos y famosos. Uno de los últimos en lucir este look es Quique Sánchez Flores , sobrino de la gran Lola, futbolista de éxito y, según dicen los medios, futuro entrenador del Sevilla .
¡Ha pasado! Las barbas con purpurina ya están aquí
Pero lucir barba no es solo dejarse crecer el vello facial . Como en todo lo que afecta al estilismo capilar, existen toda una serie de protocolos y técnicas para lograr que esa barba sea la mejor posible en el rostro de un hombre. Y no nos referimos solo al estilo hipster. Veamos cuáles son las mejores opciones según la forma de la cara.
Rostro redondeado: crear ángulos En este caso, la idea es jugar con la longitud de la barba , reduciendo el vello en la parte de las mejillas y darle así al rostro más ángulo hacia la mandíbula. En estos casos, son apuestas seguras la barba Stiletto o la Van Dyke . En la primera se trata de dejar que la barba esté bien poblada para darle una forma puntiaguda, un efecto que alarga el rostro. La Van Dyke, por su parte, combina una elegante perilla puntiaguda con un bigote natural que se inclina solo ligeramente debajo de los labios. El nombre procede del pintor flamenco Anton Van Dyck, que fue, según indican las crónicas, el primero en usar este estilismo en pleno siglo XVII.
Ovalado: todos los estilos Los rostros ovalados pueden permitirse el lujo de lucir cualquier estilo, desde los estilismos más geométricos y más extremos hasta las barbas más sencillas. Quizá el corte de barba menos apropiado para este tipo de cara sea el Stiletto, que, por su diseño puntiagudo, rompe la armonía de estas facciones.
Cuadrado: reforzar el mentón Las facciones cuadradas ya tienen suficiente fuerza , suele haber más frente y un mentón menos pronunciado, de modo que la recomendación de los expertos es apostar por una perilla bien esculpida . Si se pretende una mayor distinción resulta también perfecta una barba de correa de barbilla o una sola línea de barbilla. No obstante, a las facciones cuadradas les queda muy bien igualmente una barba completa con un corte Stiletto o la clásica barba de tres días.
Rectangular o alargado: suavizar Aquí se deben evitar las barbas largas que terminen en punta como es el caso de la Stiletto. En cambio, encaja una barba poblada, con las patillas anchas y más corta en la barbilla. También quedan bien los cortes Van Dyke, el Balbo o el Goatee (perilla) que atraen la vista hacia arriba y no hacia la parte inferior tal como sucede en los acabados puntiagudos.
Triangular: quitar peso visual al mentón En las facciones con forma de triángulo, la mandíbula es más ancha que la frente, de modo que lo ideal es dar un peso menor al mentón y no llamar la atención sobre él. Los estilos que mejor sientan son los recortados con un bigote algo largo que añada carácter.
En forma de corazón En este caso sucede al contrario que en los rostros triangulares , ya que la frente es más ancha que la mandíbula. Para compensar ante unas facciones en forma de corazón es importante añadir definición a la mandíbula con una barba corta, una barba completa o el corte Balbo, sin patillas y con un bigote separado y recortado.
Papada: estilo perfecto La barba puede ser una buena manera de disimular la papada. El truco es dejar una que crezca una barba poblada para que no deje nada a la vista de la parte inferior del rostro. Es el estilo de barba que requiere menos cuidados y, por tanto, fácil de mantener. Son precisamente los cuidados, además del corte, lo que hace que la barba sume atractivo.
Cuidados básicos Las barbas siempre tienen que estar hidratadas. "Podemos conseguirlo gracias a superhidratantes y, para después, un after shave en bálsamo y sin alcohol ", explica María García, responsable de experiencia de cliente de la firma de champús sin sulfatos Dalire. Entre los productos hidratantes, están triunfando los aceites, sobre todo cuando hay caspa o descamación, pero hay que usarlos con medida. ¿La razón? "Se podría provocar un efecto rebote y producir más descamación . Si se encrespa con la humedad, hay que utilizar ceras para peinar la barba o pulir el acabado", explica García.
El producto que utilicemos para limpiar la barba también es importante: “La piel del rostro es muy delicada y por ello es mejor usar champús que no contengan químicos y sí ingredientes naturales y vegetales como argán, karité o almendras dulces . Lo mismo ocurre con los acondicionadores, que deben utilizarse después de cada lavado, dejando reposar un par de minutos antes de aclarar", asegura la experta, quien ofrece una última recomendación: "Para que la barba esté hidratada, se puede utilizar un serum específico todas las noches antes de dormir. También es conveniente usar una toalla suave para no provocar más irritación, por ejemplo las de microfibra o las 100% algodón son perfectas", señalan desde Dalire.
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