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Opinión La nueva biblia de siempre: cocinar, comer y reaprovechar Croquetas, plato estrella de la cocina de aprovechamiento Getty Images
Mejoran los datos respecto al reaprovechamiento de los alimentos, pese a que cada español sigue arrojando a la basura 25 kilos de comida sin utilizar La cocina de sobras gana en importancia con el incremento de precios y gracias a la conciencia ambiental: son los alimentos con siete vidas A más reutilización menos producción: menos kilómetros, menos humos, menos residuos, menos agua, menos carbono El futuro nos lleva a veces al pasado. La sostenibilidad y la conciencia por la oferta insuficiente de la despensa global ha acelerado prácticas gastronómicas y de consumo que hunden las raíces en las cocinas de nuestras abuelas. La llamada cocina de aprovechamiento es hoy un imperativo. Quien no lo hace por convicción lo hace por necesidad, que con la subida del precio de los alimentos no está la cosa para tirar nada.
Sin embargo, el año pasado cada español tiró a la basura algo más de 25 kilos de alimentos sin utilizar . En total, España arrojó al cubo de los desperdicios 1.201 millones de kilos de comida o bebidas sin consumir. Es un dato elevado pero que reduce en un 6'2% la cifra del año anterior, según el Informe sobre desperdicio alimentario 2022 del Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación. Los datos globales indican que se desperdician hasta 2.500 millones de toneladas al año con un valor de 1.2 billones de dólares. Además, al desperdicio de comida se le atribuye el 10% de la emisión de gases de efecto invernadero .
Los anglosajones le llaman trash cooking . Vale, pero es lo mismo: la técnica, la habilidad y la cultura -sí, cultura, porque el hábito de aprovecharlo todo es cultural- de reutilizar las sobras de una comida y colocarlas de nuevo en la mesa como una nueva elaboración, con otra receta y técnica diferente. Lo que viene ocurriendo en la mayoría de los hogares desde que el mundo es mundo. A las abuelas y las madres, que eran quienes tradicionalmente se hacían cargo de la cocina familiar, nadie les tuvo que decir que tenían que hacerlo. Era lo lógico: apretaban los tiempos, en las casas no sobraba nada y era delito vivir con la opulencia de quien descarta género en buen estado que, además, sabiamente utilizado promete nuevos ratos de gloria culinaria. Sacarle todo el partido posible a la compra y al esfuerzo colectivo de agricultores y cocineros. Ese es el objetivo.
La agenda 2030, la nueva conciencia social y el desafío del cambio climático está forjando una nueva generación de ciudadanos conscientes de hacia dónde va el planeta y acrecientan y mejoran estos hábitos. Con todo, queda mucho por hacer. La subida de los precios motivada, al comienzo de la escalada, por la guerra de Ucrania provocó además un descenso del 8'8% de las compras en el hogar. Para qué negarlo: las crisis impulsan la conciencia . Sin embargo, creció un 11'5% el consumo de alimentos fuera del hogar, lo que ha conllevado que aumente el desperdicio de productos cocinados en locales de hostelería hasta el 21'4%.
Menos kilómetros, menos humos, menos residuos Al aprovechamiento de los alimentos está también directamente relacionado con la sostenibilidad. A más reutilización menos producción . Hay una ecuación que funciona: menos kilómetros (alimentos de proximidad ), menos humos, menos residuos, menos agua, menos carbono. Y alimentos de temporada, lo que evita traerlos desde el otro lado del océano, con el derroche energético que representa. Los productos cuya reutilización más crece son las frutas, verduras y hortalizas. Al contrario, se gestionan peor los restos de embutidos, platos preparados y pastas. Aunque, en general, el ministerio detecta un comportamiento cada vez más responsable por parte de los consumidores.
Los cocineros, paso al frente Muchos cocineros se han ido adhiriendo a esta tendencia y muchos han implantado sistemas integrales de reciclaje en sus establecimientos. Centros como el Barcelona Culinary Hub (Universidad de Barcelona) ofrecen cursos de capacitación para formar a los profesionales de la hostelería. Algunos cocineros, como el célebre chef Bosquet, premiado como Best Foodie en 2018, hace una cocina basada en el aprovechamiento total de los productos. Una filosofía que complementa con la utilización de proteínas y grasas de calidad, desterrando todo ultraprocesado de la cocina. Hasta 30 chefs con estrellas Michelin se unieron para escribir el libro 'Estrellas contra el desperdicio', con 30 recetas que pretenden ofrecer ideas a los cocineros aficionados y aportar una reflexión sobre la necesidad de reaprovechar las sobras .
Los canelones, un buen plato para aprovechar los restos uppers.es
Llega la Navidad, mucho ojo Iluminadas las calles, colocados los abetos de cartón piedra en todas las ciudades y preparadas ya las alfombras de acceso a los centros comerciales, podemos decir que la prenavidad -más larga que las propias pascuas- ya ha llegado. Esta fecha trae debajo del brazo su propia idiosincrasia respecto al gasto y, por lo tanto, los desperdicios . De hecho, más de un 20% de la comida que preparamos en navidad termina en la basura. Y dos datos: la mitad de los españoles compra alimentos que no le gustan especialmente, pero considera que son típicos de estas fechas y uno de cada cinco ciudadanos admite que durante estos días dados al consumo y el abuso alimentario desperdicia más comida que en cualquier otra época del año.
Demasiado bueno para desperdiciarlo Son datos de Too Good to go , la plataforma que lucha contra el desperdicio de alimentos y que tiene casi siete millones de usuarios y agrupa a 20.000 negocios activos comprometidos con la misma filosofía. Entre sus empresas colaboradoras están muchas de las firmas de distribución o de comida rápida más extendidas del planeta. A través de su app se pueden reservar alimentos a bajo precio en numerosos comercios . Reduce la factura para el consumidor, minimiza la merma para los restaurantes y supermercados y reduce la contaminación: sostienen que salvar una barra de pan equivale a evitar un kilómetro de emisión de CO2 de un coche.
Una de las acciones más intensas de la plataforma consiste en explicar a los consumidores la diferencia entre fecha de caducidad (cuando ya no es apto para el consumo) y de consumo preferente (que marca cuando el producto está en su mejor momento). La apuesta de TGTG para reducir las nueve toneladas de productos que se arrojan a la basura en buen estado en Europa cada año por este motivo se resume en tres palabras: mira, huele y prueba . Simplemente, una invitación a poner en marcha los sentidos antes de descartar el producto. Entre otras iniciativas, han salvado ya 16 millones de packs sorpresas entre comercios adheridos con productos en buen estado y a bajo precio. Es posible adquirir los llamados pack chefs en los restaurantes que participan en el programa. Se reservan a través de la app, se recogen en el establecimiento y además de la comida te entregan una receta para reaprovechar los restos así como los ingredientes necesarios para terminar de elaborar el plato.
Too good to go es una plataforma para aprovechar los alimentos uppers.es
Recetario clásico y actualizado Entre las recetas clásicas del género destacan las croquetas (que integran igual restos de carne, pescado o verduras), la llamada ropa vieja (se utilizan los restos de carnes del cocido o el puchero añadiéndole patatas fritas, vino y ajo), las migas (donde el pan, restos de carne o pescado e incluso frutas cobran nueva vida), todo tipo de sopas (de ajo, cebolla, verduras) o por ejemplo numerosos postres con pan duro (torrijas o pudin).
Pero hay mucho más. Los canarios cocinan una variable suculenta haciendo la ropa vieja con pulpo, patatas fritas y garbanzos . Unas hamburguesas con las verduras sobrantes con una sala de yogur y menta o albahaca, unos arancinis (que son unas bolas empanadas de arroz típicas de la cocina siciliana) que permiten utilizar el arroz sobrante de la paella incorporándole queso rallado, y cebollino o incluso meter el arroz en unas croquetas con zanahoria y curry.
En realidad, solo se necesita un poco de imaginación y cierta pericia combinando ingredientes. Lo demás es conciencia y mirar un poco por la cartera y otro poco por el planeta. En definitiva, no tires hoy lo que te puedes comer mañana.
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