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Opinión El mundo en un queso Un lujo modesto JUSTINO DIEZ
Clara Díez elabora una hermosa teoría quesocéntrica: antropología y filosofía; pastores y paisajes yermos; quesos azules, cremosos y duros El queso solo tiene adeptos y odiadores, aunque los adeptos vamos ganando por goleada Su padre, el fotógrafo Justino Díez, le ayudó le descubrió un mundo que le ha impactado y ha moldeado su vida Clara Díez ha hecho dos viajes para escribir un libro hermoso, necesario y que es un tributo al queso artesano. El primero ha sido un viaje constante -que han sido muchos- a coche o pie, por carreteras poco transitadas, trochas, caminos caudales y senderos de tierra. El otro ha sido un viaje interior. El que hizo en coche, acompañada de su padre , el fotógrafo Justino Díez, le ayudó le descubrió un mundo que le ha impactado y ha moldeado su vida. Y reflexionando, leyendo y poniendo sensibilidad donde otros solo ven mohos ha ordenado algunas prioridades de su existencia en torno a un mundo en el que el cuajo, las bacterias y las cortezas no siempre dejan ver el bosque. Sus ideas, conocimientos y experiencias los ha ordenado y desarrollado en su libro 'Leche, fermento y vida (Cómo el queso cambió mi visión del mundo)' (Editorial Debate). “Me interesa entender el queso desde una perspectiva holística. La que nos ayuda a entender quiénes somos, de donde venimos, hacia donde vamos. Me interesan la tierra, el alimento, las bacterias que rondan por el aire y que generan cortezas, esos pequeños universos irrepetibles y milagrosamente comestibles. Me interesan las manos de los queseros arrugadas por el contacto con la cuajada tibia” , explica Clara Díez en una especie de manifiesto no exento de cierto rusticismo poético.
Clara Díez Justino Díez
El queso, una de las bellas artes Hay un descubrimiento fundacional detrás de su libro: cuando descubre el queso como elemento civilizatorio, si entendemos que el comienzo de una civilización está en el chispazo en el que el hombre y la naturaleza se acoplan y crean un sistema de vida sostenible, duradero y de interés mutuo. Porque el queso surge por la colonización de la leche a cargo de agentes externos, básicamente microorganismos; por la acción del tiempo y poco más. Ese sencillo proceso transforma el líquido en sólido y le otorga nuevas cualidades y una caducidad diferente, además de alumbrar uno de los motivos por los que merece la pena vivir. Fue la naturaleza, pero después llegó el hombre, parte relevante de la ecuación, quien convirtió el proceso natural en una de las bellas artes gastronómicas. Si usted no reconoce una manifestación superior de sabiduría y evolución en la cremosidad de un Mont-d´Or, si no se conmueve ante una cuña de queso de oveja curado con aspecto de paisaje yerto o si no le fascina el lienzo multicolor de un stilton o un gamoneu del puerto, si no ve en ellos los lirios verdes o los sauces del atardecer de Van Gogh, usted tiene un problema. O quizás el problema sea de quienes lo vemos, pero ahí estamos, inasequibles al desaliento.
Esparto, pastores, ovejas Esa civilización en torno al queso es la que convierte a la joven clara Díez con 22 años en profeta, exégeta, investigadora, y más tarde en propietaria de una tienda maravillosa de quesos en Madrid, Formaje -una palabra castellana antigua que se refiere al recipiente donde se moldeaba el queso-, un parque temático para los amigos del queso. Porque ya se sabe que el queso solo tiene adeptos y odiadores , aunque los adeptos vamos ganando por goleada. “El queso como ritual transformador y como manifiesto cultural que conecta al ser humano con la mutabilidad del universo”, filosofa la joven autora.
El libro, manual indispensable en la biblioteca de cualquier aficionado a las cosas del comer, añade otros muchos elementos que lo hacen aún más nutritivo. El queso nos lleva a la España más recóndita, a una buena parte de lo que hoy se conoce como la España vacía o vaciada y Clara Díez lo cuenta y su padre la retrata con sensibilidad y arranques de prosa lírica bien trabada, muy de campos de Castilla, porque el paso del tiempo, la tradición, la dureza yerma del día a día y el paisaje son temas comunes: “Cinchos de esparto. Pastores con las nucas quemadas por el sol castigador. Tierras llanas, sin reveses. Cereal, viña y olivo. Rezos mirando al cielo, 'por favor que llueva'. Ovejas, esquivas y gregarias, que no aceptan más compañía que la de sombra común del grupo y de quien les guía, el pastor. Pezuñas que arañan la tierra y levantan polvo, (..) ese es el paisaje, sereno y sediento, en el que se gesta el queso curado español”.
Mi llegada al universo lácteo Justino Díez
Lácticos, azules, alpinos: un mundo por disfrutar El libro invita a recorrer el mundo del queso con cierto orden, una vez establecido cómo, cuándo y por qué Clara Díez vio la luz. La leche, la mano del hombre, el pastoreo, el paisaje y las estaciones. Y le sigue un detenido, explicativo e interesante manual de uso de los quesos lácticos , las pastas prensadas no cocidas, los quesos alpinos, los quesos frescos, las pastas hiladas, las natas y leches fermentadas, los quesos azules.
Un interesante capítulo a modo de reflexión abrocha el libro: “El queso y tú”. Con cierto afán educativo, aborda el delicado asunto de preparar una tabla de quesos y lo hace abogando por ofrecer los quesos sin cortar: lo contrario es eliminar cualquier rastro de la textura exterior de los mismos, de su tamaño, de la proporción, se elimina información sobre cada pieza, se desmocha la experiencia, limitando notablemente el disfrute y no se hace justicia a cada pieza, cada elaborador, cada pastor, cada oveja. Nos habla del entorno hospitalario que crean los materiales nobles y usados – maderas, cerámicas- y recuerda que es deber cívico compartir las mejores partes del queso -el centro, donde conserva más humedad- dado que cambia la textura, el aroma y el sabor. Aunque advierte contra el exceso de normas: “Una buena mesa es decadente como Palermo, está viva y desordenada”.
Un lujo modesto JUSTINO DIEZ
Clara Díez ha escrito una balada sobre el queso donde “se concilian lo humilde y lo excelso” acentuando los perfiles menos visibles de la actividad quesera : “Sabiduría, arraigo, mesura y transformación”. Vivir varias vidas gracias al queso la ha cambiado, le ha permitido explorar cada capa vinculada a esta actividad. Antropología, demografía, historia, tradiciones, economía y gastronomía. Esta joven vallisoletana ha inventado el quesocentrismo .
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