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Ira, envidia o soberbia: analizamos los siete pecados capitales del vino Una copa de vino
El escritor y amante del vino Manuel Juliá aborda siete 'maltratos' al contenido de tu copa La ira, la gula, la envidia, la pereza, la soberbia, la lujuria y la avaricia. Los siete pecados capitales también deambulan con áspero augurio por los ámbitos vinícolas. Estas historias, inspiradas en situaciones reales aunque con licencias literarias, lo demuestran; y son evidencia de que no es solo virtud lo que envuelve el rico mundo del vino .
La ira del Marqués El marqués de Riñón comía con el marqués de Uvas en el maravilloso restaurante. Allí todo amaba la vida. Al lado de su mesa tres tipos con pinta de constructores rurales enriquecidos se sentaron con sonora jarana y albricias. Sus risas atronaban. Cuando llegó el sumiller dijo el más grueso: "Traiga un Excelentus del marqués de Riñón".
No quedó claro si sabía que el autor del vino estaba allí. Pero el marqués infló de orgullo su pecho. Cuando llegó el vino sacaron tres vasitos de plástico, de los de las verbenas, y los llenaron hasta arriba. Ante la estupefacción del sumiller, uno de ellos dijo que lo hacían porque en las copas de cristal había restos de detergente . Al ver aquello el marqués de Riñón comenzó a ponerse blanco, a llenarse de ira. Cuando se levantaba e iba hacia ellos tuvieron que pararle los camareros. A punto estuvo de darle un infarto. Los tres tipos lo miraban sorprendidos. "¿Qué le pasa a este hombre?", decían a los comensales extrañados.
La gula del vino con alcachofas Amo las alcachofas a la plancha. Me comería mil. Pero jamás las había probado con vino. Alguien me advirtió, seguro. Pero lo había olvidado. Aquel día tenía en casa unas alcachofas de huerta y un Quercus. Me encerré para el festín. Me comí dos alcachofas antes de dar el primer trago.
Y como estaban saladas bebí media copa. Entonces sentí en la boca una aspereza brutal. El vino resbalaba por la lengua como si llevara telarañas. Sabía a musgo con moscas. Uaggg. Tuve que dejar de comer. Entonces recordé que fue mi padre quien me advirtió. Y me dije que jamás volvería a olvidar un consejo de mi padre.
La lujuria del Pingús La luz ámbar de las cristaleras invadía el restaurante. Los rayos del sol, como cayendo de un membrillo, se posaban sobre los manteles blancos. El chaval ojeaba la carta. Ella le miraba embobada. Al acercarse el camarero dijo con osadía. "¡Traiga un Pingus!". Ella, que miraba de refilón, se atoró. 700 euros. Nosotros comíamos en la mesa de al lado. Al fin veíamos al alguien que pedía uno de esos vinos prohibitivos. El chaval brindó con ella, y después del clic, miró al salón como si fuera un torero después de una buena faena.
Cuando no habían consumido media botella el chaval llamó al sumiller. "¡Traiga otro Pingus!" , dijo poniendo cara de Bill Gates. La descorchó, le dio un beso a la mujer, y sonrió al auditorio. Ella no sabía dónde esconderse. Se fueron y quedó en la mesa una botella y media de Pingus . El sumiller, colega, la llevó a nuestra mesa. No dejamos ni una gota. Preguntamos si lo conocía, si sabía dónde solía comer. El sumiller nos dijo que no. Qué pena. Pero brindamos por nuestro maravilloso desconocido. Todavía estamos esperando que vuelva.
La soberbia del Vega Sicilia Me contó el gran Custodio Zamarra que una vez le pidió alguien en el restaurante un Vega Sicilia con gaseosa . Y Custodio le respondió: "¿de qué año quiere la gaseosa?".
Envidia cochina Hay un albariño que se llama Envidia Cochina. Como es de rigor en la etiqueta se muestra un diablo narigudo con cuernos y rabo rojos y un tridente. Belcebú ofrece una rosa a una mujer con amplio escote, falda y curvas. La etiqueta imita un 'recorte' de prensa de un artículo sobre la envidia.
Las viñas tienen más de 30 años y se encuentran dentro del Val do Salnés. Cuando probé ese vino, cosecha del 16, su sabor a frutas blancas, aroma cítrico, frescor, acidez equilibrada y su dulzor almibarado, sentí envidia del arte de los que lo habían hecho . Eso sí, envidia sana. Pues gozar con la envidia, más que un vicio, es una virtud.
La avaricia del bodeguero La bodega producía muchos millones de litros de vino, cada año más. Siempre se las ingeniaba para regar en contra de la normativa. Solía encender los riegos de noche. Había llegado a un acuerdo con unos franceses. Él producía un vino excelente y ellos estaban dispuestos a comprarle todo a medio euro. Así que exprimió sus viñas cuanto pudo .
Pensaba que en pocos años se haría rico. Pero alguien denunció sus trapacerías , comprobaron su mala práctica, y le calló una multa que se llevó todos los beneficios. La avaricia había roto el saco. Y encima un día en Carrefour vio un vino francés y le echo un vistazo. Cada botella costaba seis euros. Miró la etiqueta para ver las características del vino. Y cuál no fue su sorpresa al comprobar que aquel vino procedía de su bodega.
La pereza del mal camarero Le dijimos mil veces que se comprara una nevera de vinos , que no lo sometiera a un viaje por el desierto. A veces lo tenía al lado del radiador. Otras cerca de la máquina del café y entonces el vapor envolvía la botella. En pleno mes de agosto solía tenerlo encima de la barra. Tomarse un vino allí era como meterse un estropajo por la boca.
Yo le dije que algún día las botellas se rebelarían y tomarían el bar. Como era un tipo perezoso me respondió encogiéndose de hombros. Pero una mañana llegamos y lo encontramos temblando. No había ninguna botella a la vista. Le preguntamos y nos dijo que estaban todas en el refrigerador. Sobre el temblor nos dijo que tenía razón, que esa mañana las botellas se habían rebelado, que habían soltado sus corchos como balas sobre su cuerpo . Aprendió la lección. Al día siguiente había un excelente enfriador.